Wish your skin were as smooth as a baby’s bottom? Without a time machine, that’s a tall order. But through dermaplaning, also called microplaning, a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician can uncover the newer, smoother skin that’s buried under a layer of old, dead skin cells, not to mention some fine hairs, aka peach fuzz.
In this procedure, the provider uses a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel to scrape off dead skin cells and fine hairs known as vellus hairs, revealing brighter, fresher-looking, silky-smooth skin. In essence, dermaplaning is next-level exfoliation for your skin. There’s no blood, swelling or bruising — at worst, your face might look slightly pink or red for a few hours or days, depending on the sensitivity of your skin. There’s also no pain (though your skin may feel a bit tender afterward) and no downtime. The procedure typically takes between 20 and 40 minutes.
Dermaplaning is often done before another cosmetic procedure, such as a light chemical peel, to enhance its effect. Check out the video below to see dermaplaning in action.
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Benefits of dermaplaning
Dermaplaning temporarily removes fine facial hair, which many other procedures, such as microdermabrasion, do not. Like other exfoliation methods, dermaplaning can unclog pores and remove blackheads.
After dermaplaning, skin care products such as moisturizers and anti-aging creams may penetrate the skin better and therefore work more effectively. Makeup will also glide on more smoothly. If you have acne scars (especially the small, deep, “pitted” scars that sometimes result from cystic acne) or areas of hyperpigmentation (dark spots or patches), these may be less noticeable following a dermaplaning treatment. Fine lines may be less visible, too.
“Dermaplaning is my favorite procedure I provide patients because it immediately creates a healthier, more radiant appearance to your skin,” said Alyse Penninger, Licensed Medical Aesthetician at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “The treatment also increases absorption of skin care products to give you that lasting glow for weeks.”
Is dermaplaning safe?
Dermaplaning is quite safe when performed by a licensed aesthetician or board-certified dermatologist, but it’s not completely risk free. In rare cases, infection or scarring may result — one reason it’s important to choose a highly reputable, experienced provider. Light patches are another possible side effect. You’ll need to be especially diligent about wearing sunscreen in the days and weeks immediately following the procedure to help protect the newly exposed skin.
If you’ve heard that fine facial hair will grow back thicker or darker after dermaplaning, fear not: That is simply not true.
While at-home dermaplaning is all the rage, experts advise against performing this procedure at home. You may succeed in removing fine hairs, but you probably will not get deep enough to remove dead skin cells — and if you do, you might cut yourself (likely with a non-sterile blade, to boot).
Who shouldn’t get dermaplaning?
If you have inflamed acne, dermaplaning is not advised as the procedure can further irritate your skin. If you have eczema or rosacea or if your skin is extra sensitive, you should seek the advice of a licensed aesthetician or dermatologist to discuss whether dermaplaning is right for you. Hold off on a dermaplaning treatment if you have a cold sore on your face.
Finally, if you have large, deep acne scars, consult with your provider prior to seeking dermaplaning.
How long does dermaplaning last?
The results of dermaplaning last about three to four weeks. Most experts suggest getting the treatment no more than once every four weeks (less often if you have very sensitive skin).
“Most of my patients love to have this treatment done right before a big event because it makes their makeup go on like it’s been airbrushed,” said Alyse.
Article Written By: Marianne Wait, an award-winning health and wellness writer based in New Jersey.